A visitor's perspective of Niue things to see and do by Dr J Floor Anthoni, Sept 2005 www.seafriends.org.nz/niue/visitor.htm Niue does not offer night life, beaches, shopping and other niceties that the modern tourist expects but in a way it offers more, if one only knew what to look for. This chapter discloses some of Niue's best kept secrets, there for anyone to discover during a visit to Niue. In this document we've restricted ourselves to Niue's natural wonders, which are always available. Its cultural events have been documented in other web sites. introduction: an overview of what you can do and how to plan your time. Mode of transport, skills, safety and more. walking the forest: an unforgettable outing in which you learn about the secrets of the forest going north: what to find going from Alofi northward toward Liku going south: what to find going from Alofi southward towards Liku

• sight-seeing by car, motor bike, bicycle or on foot: Transport can be hired in several places. Depending on your physical fitness and the weather, you can easily move across the island as it is essentially flat.
• swimming in the crystal clear sea: It would be hard to find a place in the world with clearer water. The water is pleasant but cool and you can easily stay for an hour in winter, while swimming.
• snorkelling with mask and fins: In Niue the water is deep, immediately past the reef flats. There are a number of places where you'll find an abundant variety of life but not a lot of each. Because the water is so clear, you will be able to see about 40m distant and clear details as far as 30m. Underwater visibility of 60m occurs regularly, particularly in the dry season.
• rockpooling: The rock pools are very interesting, and many are deep enough to swim in. For children they are entirely safe, and with mask and snorkel you can discover a large variety of life hiding there. The reef flats of Niue are incredibly rich in rock pools. Many rock pools are covered in a layer of cool fresh water, which is a first-time sensation.
• reef exploration: around low tide the reef flats of which there are many, dry up allowing you to walk from one flat to the other, exploring sea caves and whatever lives on these flats and its many rock pools. It is a very interesting activity for children because there is so much to discover, and it is entirely safe. But this activity depends on the timing of the tide, which requires you to plan ahead.
• cave exploration: Niue is a coral limestone island which is riddled with sinkholes, tunnels and caves. Some of these are large and well known and a smaller number is very easy to reach and safe to enter. For most caves you will need to walk a little.
• fishing: with their small canoes, the locals catch large fish close to home and in such clear waters. For some visitors a day's fishing is an irresistible attraction.
• diving: with the local dive business you will be able to visit the best spots Niue has to offer, depending on wind and weather. Usually two dives are done in succession, which takes all of a morning or afternoon.
• whale watching: Niue is visited by adult humpback whales in the winter season from July to October. The females give birth and also mate for the next season. But a visit depends not only on suitable weather but also on the chance that a whale stays nearby and tolerates the visit. Niue also has one or two pods of common dolphins which can be approached in a boat but not while swimming because they are rather wary. When diving or snorkelling, the whale's song can often be heard from as far as a couple of kilometres away. People in Niue always know where the whales have last been seen, and the high rock terrace allows for excellent whale spotting.
• visiting a local celebration: Niueans have plenty of reasons or excuses to meet and celebrate. Usually a large part of the island turns up. There is always a market with food, and of course music and song. Enquire which celebration will coincide with your visit.
• other things: your tourism brochure points to other things to visit like the museum, weaving and so on.

• shopping: there are no tax-free malls with enticing goods. The shops in Niue provide for the bare necessities, and even then supply often depends on the arrival of the next container ship.
• dancing and disco: on the Friday and Saturday nights there is some of this activity for the young, with very loud music.
• eating out: don't expect five or even three star restaurants. Eating in Niue is basic but the choice is improving. A decent cup of espresso coffee has recently become available from the Washaway Cafe in Avatele and the Crazy Uga in Alofi.
• surfing: Niue has no surf beaches and the surf it has is more of the dumper kind and often deadly where the trade swell arrives.
• beaches: Niue has no beaches of mention because the shore drops so steeply away to bottomless depths. Avatele has a lovely lagoon which is little larger than a swimming pool but most of it too shallow for swimming. But it is safe water with a lot of interest and yes, there is a beach which has been destroyed by Heta and plans for its restoration are underway.
• horse riding: Niueans have never taken to horses as the grass and pastures necessary for keeping them, are not there.
• camping/tenting: although Niue is perfectly safe for camping, it does not have enough demand. Accommodation is relatively cheap and budget accommodation is readily available. The one and only camp site near the Huvalu forest is abandoned and unkempt.
• cathedrals, temples & monuments: Niue has never had the prosperity, population and hierarchy to build large edifices. Living on a small island with few resources and scourged by hurricanes does not provide for this kind of expenditure.

• swimsuit: always bring your swim suit because opportunities for a cool refreshing swim are found in the most unexpected places.
• mask, snorkel and fins: yes I put this a first priority because the sea there is so inviting. I love a morning swim of an hour or so, just in swimsuit and snorkelgear. It gets you fit quickly and active for the day. Can't get enough of it. Rockpooling and snorkelling become just so much more. You will notice that swimsuit and mask are necessary to swim in the many inviting pools at the ends of the many sea tracks you will walk.
• long light trousers, long shirt, sun block cream: one day of tropical sun from a clear sky can get you blistered. Bring your shorts and tee shirts as well, because it can also become hot even though Niue's climate is cool-tropical with a pleasant trade wind.
• insect repellant? you may not believe this but insect attack is entirely unpredictable in Niue. It does not have stagnant pools of water to breed mosquitoes in and there's precious little that house flies can feast on. The evenings are balmy with many harmless moths but few mosquitoes. Just be prepared for the one exception.
• first aid kit: when you got it, you won't need it and when you need it, you haven't got one. But Niue is not a paved first world. Wherever you go, there is sharp coral and it is so easy to stumble and fall. Then there's no doctor or first aid within an hour's walking or driving. You are entirely on your own. To meet someone else is a chance event. So what should the kit contain? Big and small plasters and a potent disinfectant because a live coral scratch won't heal easily (like six weeks!). Hydrogen peroxide is recommended, and failing that betadine iodide. Even pure bleach is recommended. I prefer pure kitchen bleach (chlorine).
• shoes: you will walk over sharp coral which tears shoes to bits. Jandals are out of the question. You will walk over wet reef flats and your shoes get wet. Tennis shoes are okay or something similar but a thicker sole is recommended.
• walking stick: a walking stick or pole is not a bad idea because one can easily stumble and fall. In many places the coral is so sharp that grabbing it could tear your skin. A walk through the bush with Misa reminded us how helpful a stick can be.

What should you do first? It depends - on the weather and tides. So here is a list of those conditions and what you could do.

• waves: waves very quickly spoil the water fun. The sea becomes tricky or dangerous to enter. Use the calm seas for snorkelling, swimming and even rockpooling.
• low tide: the low tide allows you to explore the reef flats and to do rockpooling. Make it your first priority as the low tide occurs 50 minutes later each day. Calm seas, low tide and sunny weather are best for reef exploartion, swimming and rockpooling.
• fine and sunny: sunny days are best for touring and walking the cool forests. They also make for good photography, both above and under water. Sun-lit days are also excellent for diving and snorkelling as the sea looks really inviting and blue.
• overcast and cloudy: excellent for caving as the sunlight penetrates deeper.

f220607: bikes, motorbikes and cars can be rented at reasonable prices.

f045115: swimming with mask and fins in the giddy blue waters is one of the most enjoyable experiences.

f047600: a coral wonderland awaits divers. Recovery from cyclone damage is usually rapid.

f044829: nearly every reef flat is tunnelled under by extensive cave systems that can be explored on SCUBA. For some a torch is needed.

0507457: the trip leads through regenerating bush and through the dark tall rain forest. Bring sensitive film.

0507446: Misa shows the edible sprouts of a tree epiphyte. In order to survive, one must know what is edible without being cooked.

0507463: in one of the clearings stands the beginning of a primitive but adequate forest shelter. Just weave the epiphyte leaves on and tie them down with strips of tough bark. Then light a smouldering smoky fire to keep insects out.

0507481: with a stick and bark of the fou tree, Misa shows how to make fire by rubbing the two together. Here he has transferred the smouldering dust to a coconut husk.

0507473: wood from the fou tree can also be soaked and turned into a fine, strong tissue.

0507455:  a papaya (pawpaw) fruit is used to snag birds but it also makes an unforgettable refreshment, sprinkled with lime (a lemon).

0507428: with a bit of luck and some courage you may hold Misa's coconut crab, here 'parked' on his walking stick.

• Utuko Reef & track: just behind us on the other side of Government House is Utuko sea track which leads to a recently protected reef and sea area around it. Good rockpooling.
• Togalahi track: on the wharf side of Government House is another sea track, which has not been restored yet, also leading to the protected Utuko Reef.
• Tomb Point: the lookout point and flagstaff looking over the Sir Robert Wharf area. One sees the yachts on anchor and the local fishing fleet. This lookout can become a busy place when the container ship arrives with long-awaited goods. A good whale lookout.
• Sir Robert Wharf: it is safe and easy to enter the water from the wharf, even at high tide and with moderate waves. Just make sure not to interfere with commercial activities. Swim out around Government House where the reef and sea became protected in 2005 as a 'temporary' measure. The wharf is also a good starting point for night dives in the immediate vicinity.
• Omahi sea track and reef: after Niue Rentals
• Togalupo reef and sea track: immediately opposite the Alofi-Tokelau Nuku Tutaha Club on right, the last sea track before the steep coast of the new marine reserve.
• Vaila sea track: (to be updated)
• Marine reserve lookout: leads to the steep shore of the Vailoapu-Anono marine reserve but has no sea access. Good whale watching. The marine reserve ends just before the Makefu Bush Road on right.
• Peniamina's Grave: after Makefu bush road but before the houses of Makefu, on your left, is the grave of spiritual leader Peniamina who played such an important role in bringing religion to the Niueans. The Coral GArdens motel and restaurant comes next, then Makefu Village.
• Avaiki sea track: Avaiki (from the word Havaiki, the ancestral centre of Polynesia) is where the first canoe landed, later the bathing place of kings. You enter through a beautiful dripstone cave with several branches. Across the reef flat on your right is the bathing place of Kings, a deep pool with cool water but no swimming here on Sundays! The reef flats are interesting too. At a certain time of year the reefs are home to a myriad small fish, kalamoana, which is prized for food.
• Palaha sea track and cave: Palaha cave is not to be missed as it is large and beautiful, opening wide to a bordering rock pool and reef flats. An unforgettable experience.
• Tavahihi sea track: before Tuapa village a wide track gives access to the sea.
• Tuapa sea track: at the end of Tuapa an inconspicuous sea track leads to the extensive reef flats of Tuapa.
• Hio reef and sea track: immediately adjoining Tuapa is Hio with its wood carving artist (Al Posimani) on your right. A track leads to the sea and a sandy beach with a small cave. Peruvian 'blackbirders' wrecked one of their ships here and the locals poured their liquor into the sea under loud protest. Soon you'll come to where the road splits. Follow the sea.
• Namukulu sea track and reef: just before the village of Namukulu is the Namukulu sea track, of economic importance because it has a very small natural harbour (an L-shaped channel) with easy access to the sea, and a wide road with parking leading to it. Ardent snorkellers may meet the challenge of swimming northward to where a mooring buoy marks the point of two deep caves entered from a deep shaft to 30 metres depth! This of course, is for experienced divers. Take note of the current!
• Limu Pools:  a steep track leads to one of the most favourite places on Niue, Limu Pools. The area is sheltered and has two main pools. On the left the enclosed pool which eventually leads out towards the sea. This pool was once full of living coral and colourful fish but cyclone Heta has set it back. There are picnic tables and seats. To your right is the other pool which leads through an archway to the sea. A torrent of almost fresh (but always cool) water flows into this pool. On reasonably calm days you can swim out into the sea to snorkel the seaward reefs.
• Hikutavake sea track and reef: there's little left of the village of Hikutavake but where the houses are, a sea track leads to the local reef, with a small challenge at the end (some climbing). But your effort will be rewarded, as this reef has enjoyed de-facto protection because there are so few local villagers left to exploit it. Very good reef exploration although deep rockpools are few.
• Matapa chasm: the road ends in a grassy parking area and a walking track leads to the Matapa Chasm, a place favoured for its cool, safe swimming. You can also swim out to sea on a calm day. An underground stream enters here with cool fresh water.
• Talava Arches: the matapa track immediately splits to a long walk (30mins) over a rough path to the arches. Although perhaps too far for those who do not walk easily, this is not to be missed. Through a narrow sea cave which opens up wide, one arrives at an enchanted long pool of blue water. Halfway through the cave one clambers down to the Talava Arches, which once were the majestic openings of a very large sea cave. In the distance one sees another archway to be explored by walking over the reef. Opposite the far arch, one can enter a small cave with excellent stalagtites but a torch is needed and low tide.
• Vaihoko: the track is difficult to find and follow but leads to a reef with channels and caves. It was used as a canoe landing for the preparation of arrow root (pia).
• Highest point: Follow the road further, which now climbs up the Mutalau ridge, towards the island's highest point (but not indicated) near the village of Mutalau. Very little is left of the village of Toi.
• Uluvehi sea track: a wide road leads to a shaded parking and then steeply to a place where canoes can be launched with difficulty. Canoes are garaged in small natural caves. The sea is usually wild, but this is a good whale watching point.
• Vaitafe: a broad stretch of reef with a good swimming hole with a steep climb down to reach it.
• Anatola cave: the road leads past coconut groves to Anatola cave but the cave is not easy to find. It was originally the home of a dangerous god. (to be updated later)
• Lakepa sea track: off the village green of the tidy village of Lakepa, one can find a scruffy track leading through the changing coastal forest to a small parking lot where concrete steps lead steeply to the reef flats, but there is no canoe access. It is a memorable drive.
• Liku sea track and reef: from the village green of Liku a well maintained track leads to the sea, tar sealed where it winds down steeply to a small parking place. From here concrete steps lead you through a sea cave to the reef flats which are well worth exploring.

f221312: Government House, located on a promontory, escaped destruction by cyclone Heta as the water flowed around it.

0507092: Tomb Point overlooks the harbour and boat moorings and is excellent for whale watching. When the container ship arrives, one can spend hours here.

0507085: Sir Robert wharf is too shallow and small for berthing ships. Here the containers are ferried by a small tender to the wharf where large cranes lift them onto transporters. In the distant Niue's fledgling fishing fleet can be seen on their moorings. Because the sea is easy to enter and exit, this is a good place to do night dives.

0507207: the Omahi sea track leads to a wide reef.

f220521: Tavahihi sea track gives easy access to the reefs.

f220528: the Namukulu sea track gives access for cars to an L-shaped channel in the reef. Cyclone Heta caused terrible damage but the track and sea access have since been restored. It is of economical importance.

f220613: this beautiful dripstone cave gives access to the Avaiki reef and caves.

f220631: the Avaiki royal swimming hole is in the distant cave. The entrance to this reef is on right, outside the photo.

f220620: it is like swimming inside a cathedral. The water is crystal clear but cool from a freshwater spring in the distance. No swimming on Sundays!

f223021: Well maintained grounds bordered by coconut trees invite you to visit Palaha cave, not to be missed.

f223024: the track to Palaha cave seems to end here but suddenly veers to the left towards an unlikely small entrance.

f223026: the Palaha cave opens up wide to the reef flat, with good swimming pools in front and an excellent opportunity for rockpooling.

f223104: the Palaha cave is large and deep, its ceiling 'supported' by pillars. Can you find the person in the picture?

f223111: another part of the Palaha Cave dwarfs the person on its pulpit.

f220530: the main pool of Limu is large, with clear calm water, corals and fish. Swimming is always safe but watch out for sea urchins. In the distance it connects through a narrow channel to the sea.

f044522: coral fishes frequent the Limu pools, so don't forget to bring your mask. It is an excellent place for children.

f044504: an experienced snorkeldiver dives into one of the small caves of Limu pools. After rains, fresh water lays on top of the salt, particularly in the archway pool where a torrent of brackish water pours out of the cliff.

f044533: the archway pool is deeper and connects through an archway and a narrow channel to the sea. It is a worthwhile swim for the more experienced, as the outer reefs are interesting. From here one can swim back to the Namukulu sea track.

0507289: the Hikutavake reef is one of the most interesting reefs to explore because rich reef life is still found there.

0507219: the Hikutavake sea track is still messy and perhaps will always remain so.

0507221: a small hurdle must be overcome at the end of the track, due to damage from cyclones.

f223016: the outer reef of Hikutavake is well alive with grazing animals. The calm sea for the moment allows one to explore the very edges of the reef. Make use of calm seas because they are much rarer than wave-swept ones.

f222925: the sea track to the Matapa chasm is well maintained and short.

f222928: swimming in the Matapa chasm is safe and refreshing due to underground freshwater streams. The chasm connects to the sea.

f222933: the Talava arches are reached through a magnificent dripstone cave as shown here and on right. f222931: a sink hole now acts as a roof light.

f223204: the Talava arches are worthy of the long walk to get there. A natural bridge spans two archways and in the distance a third can be seen.

f223209: view from the main arch towards a distant arch and high reef flats in between. The long rock pool is full of life and worth exploring.

f221208: the Uluvehi sea track ends here where the reef is shallow but the sea usually wild.

f221211: the sea caves and overhangs are used as natural boat houses to park outrigger canoes in.

• Utuko sea track and reef: by the new Crazy Uga cafe, a well maintained sea track leads to the Utuko reef which is excellent for rockpooling. This track is lit at night.
• Kalaone sea track and reef: a short and easy track leads to the sea where only a few steps over the reef flat bring you to a deep cleft through which you can enter the sea. It is an excellent starting point for a swim and snorkelling the outside reefs. The reef flats also has some interesting rock pools with a surprising variety of life. At its southern end is a sea cave. The track is lit at night.
• Opaahi sea track: after leaving most of Alofi, past the Church of Jesus Christ on your left, the Opaahi sea track leads direct to a place where you can step into the sea to swim and snorkel the seaward side of Opaahi reef on the right. This is the site of Captain cook's landing in June 1774 as he met with a hostile reception and was himself almost hit by a spear.
• Whale lookout: opposite Alofi Rentals, whales are often seen. Here the shore drops steeply to 40m depth, which allows whales the depth to come close. There is no special facility.
• Amanau reef and sea track: you've now passed Alofi Rentals, the fuel station on right, the Airport turnoff on left. Opposite the fish processing plant the Amanau track leads steeply to an interesting reef, excellent for rockpooling.
• Anaana lookout: you've now passed the quarry on left and the rubbish dump on right, and there's a small loop road to your right. From here a narrow track leads further to the rough coast of Anaana Point and an invisible blowhole below. The trade swell curves round Tepa Point and arrives at Anaana Point where it breaks in roaring fury and salt spray. Veer off the track over the razor sharp coral rocks to see sculptures of the original fossil corals embedded in this rock, carved by fast rain drops to their original shapes.
• Tamakautoga reef and Togulu sea track: in the village green of Tamakautoga a short road leads to the sea. Steps lead down to a small beach and calm water at high tide, a good place for small children. At low tide the reef flats can be explored.
• Pofitu sea track: you have passed the turnoff to the airport, Niue Dive and the Matavai Resort. The Pofitu sea track ends in steep steps to the reef flat. This is a large reef flat which extends from south of Anaana Point almost to Avatele.
• Avatele harbour: from the village green the road veers right and descends into Avatele Harbour, the only place with a beach and a small lagoon. There is a well used boat ramp and a derrick for hoisting boats. A number of frequently used outrigger canoes are parked in a corner. The Washaway Cafe overlooks the area and is a good place to be on weekend nights. Avatele lagoon is an amazing place for snorkelling, even though fresh water flows at the surface, troubling the water below. Should you swim out of the harbour, be aware of strong outward currents when waves wash over the reef into the lagoon at high tide. In such a case, swim back by the reef side, with the waves, rather than against the main current in the deep side by the cliff. The outer reefs are amazing and two coves further to the left is Snake Gully.
• Fatiau Tuai: at the end of the village green in Vaiea is an uneasy track to the sea, but there are more tracks and one is easily lost. (to be updated later)
• Tuhia-atua reef and sea track: you pass the Vaiea nonu farm on your left and arrive at Hakupu village. Somewhere on your right, past the old school building is a good track to the sea. Make sure you keep going towards the sea, oterwise you may get lost in the back blocks. The last bit is a walked through a beautiful little sea cave onto a wide reef flat.
• Anapala chasm: At the bottom-right of the parking, a sign leads to a track towards the Anapala chasm which has a pool of fresh water. The track is good and swimming in the fresh water of the chasm is a terrific experience.
• Vaotoi chasm: between Hakupu and Liku the road is not tar sealed but leads through lush bush on both sides. (to be updated later)
• Togo chasm: inside the Huvalu forest park is the entrance to the Togo chasm. An interesting but not too difficult walk leads you through the coastal forest to the saltspray zone where the forest abruptly ends. Here begins an alien landscape of razor sharp pinnacles and sink holes but a cemented path leads the way to the famous Togo Chasm. A long ladder leads down into the chasm which is an inland beach, thrown there by the sea during storms. In the chasm stand mature coconut palms. At the far end the side collapsed, requiring one to climb over the rubble to the end of the chasm, to find a green freshwater pool. By the ladder an interesting cave with a roof window, leads out to sea, where a natural bridge can be seen spanning the seething water.
• Vaikona chasm and high pools: a long and arduous walk leads you over the Namuke sea track, through the coastal forest with all its variety, over razor sharp bommies and sink holes, under dense foliage to the Vaikona cave (chasm) and a few steps further to the edge of the sea. Here you can see the sea lashing the coast and spouting high up in the air to fill the famous high pools of the tradewind side, protected by their atrocious conditions. The Vaikona cave appeals to adventurers for its challenges. Along a steep slippery slope one enters the underworld with ferns, lit from a chasm. One comes to an underground pool of fresh water, which has to be crossed by swimming and a long breath-hold dive to reach yet another one further on. But signs at its entrance warn people off. It is a risky undertaking, discouraged by the local community, the tourism operators and the police. Perhaps there's a guide for you. Remember, there are no rescue teams around. Even without entering the cave, the Vaikona track is an awesome experience but one that requires reasonable fitness, good shoes and for safety, a first-aid kit.
• Ulupaka: a cave with many beautiful stalactites and stalagmites. This is the territory of Tali's Cave Tours. Absolutely fantastic!! There are wonderful rock formations, stalagmites and stalactites at every step of the way, and this is a real winner. Because the caves are flat it's not very difficult, although it can be slippery and there are a couple of quite narrow squeezes. We were in each cave for about an hour and a half. Tali is a great guide. Book Tali Magatogia (pronounce: Mangatongia) at the tourist office in Alofi's shopping centre, or by email mapualagienote@yahoo.co.nz or talitours@niue.nu, Ph 683 3405.

0507363: the Crazy Uga cafe looks out over the sea and Opaahi reef. The sea track begins on left. The reef was protected from exploitation in 2005.

f045135: the Opaahi reef pools are clear and interesting and full of life.

0507121: Amanau reef with excellent rock pools. This is the left view of a panorama of the reef.

0507120: the right hand side of the Amanau reef panorama. A steep ladder gives access to the reef.

f220503: as the trade swell curves round Tepa Point, it breaks on the coast at Anaana Point, dousing the landscape in salt spray. The rocks here are sharp and hard.

f221523: explore the fossil corals at Anaana Point excavated by fast moving rain drops as the salt spray prevents vegetation from taking over.

f220505: from the centre of Tamakautoga village, a convenient and short track leads to this small sandy beach with safe rock pools at low tide. It's a little gem. In the distance Tepa Point that protects this part of the shore.

0507351: At the end of the Pofitu sea track, steep steps lead you onto the wide reef, here covered by the high tide.

f223127: the convivial Washaway Cafe at Avatele in the setting sun light, a meeting point for visitors.

f220636: the Avatele boat ramp and derrick is of economic importance for launching fishing boats, dive charters and so on.

f046324: many species of fish can be discovered when snorkelling in Avatele harbour. Here a small school of convict tangs can be seen.

f046301: in the shelter of protecting rocks, corals can be found in Avatele harbour.

f220718: the Tuhia-atua sea track leads through a small cave to the reef flats.

f223226: the Tuhia-atua sea cave frames the view of the sea and reef flats.

f220815: the forest ends abruptly at this sentinel coconut tree which already shows salt spray damage.

f220732: an alien landscape of razor sharp craggy rocks with poorly developed soils and minimum vegetation, is the coastal salt spray habitat. A concreted path saves your shoes and leads safely to the Togo chasm.

f220801: a long ladder stands in the far distance where visitors enter the Toga chasm. Mature coconut trees managed to establish them here on this sandy beach.

f220809: next to the ladder is a small entrance that widens to this sea cave with roof light. From the sea cave, the natural bridge and seething sea can be seen. A cool trade wind blows through the cave.

f220814: from the top one can also see the natural bridge and swell crashing onto the shore.

f223303: the Vaikona track is arduous but adventuresome. It leads between and over sharp coral bommies and at times under the forest roots.

f223304: Pandanus stilt roots are a sure sign of the coastal zone. The track leads around and through them.

f223315: The Vaikona chasm, seen from above, is vegetated, indicating that fresh water is around.

f223313: this is the foreboding entrance to the Vaikona chasm. It leads down a 45 degree slippery slope with little to hold on to. One must be well prepared for further exploration, which includes swimsuit and snorkel mask, safety ropes and first-aid kit. Never enter alone.

f223307: at the edge of the sea, the vegetation suddenly thins out. From here access to the reef flats is only for mountaineers.

f223310: this is a calm day at the Vaikona reef, as the waves do not show white-caps further out in sea. It is low tide, yet the waves still wash over the entire reef flat. f223309: from here the high pools can be seen and waves spouting 20 metres up in the air. These pools grow slowly upward and they contain fish trapped there for life, sustained by mysterious mini ecosystems.