Impressions of Niue under water
Niue has had a thorough buffeting from Cyclone Heta in January 2004, in fact perhaps the worst case recorded in living memory. Where people thought to be safe from the sea, some 25m above sea level, this was proved wrong, even though a disaster of this magnitude may never happen again. Under water, the sea received an equal hiding resulting in totally barren areas, completely stripped of life. But on the very sheltered  Western side of the island, cyclones are normal fare, occurring sufficiently frequently to maintain a barren seascape. Yet these barrens are covered in fine algae, growing at maximal rates for the dearth of nutrients dissolved in these ultra-clear waters. The barrens maintain armies of grazers, from tiny snails to nocturnal sea urchins and day-time grazing fish. One could say that they maintain more life than the coral-clad slopes of the other side of the island.

The other side, although not visited by the worst of cyclones, receives continuous buffeting from large ocean swell, propelled by never-ending South-East trade winds experienced as a refreshening cool sea breeze all day and night. We ventured a dive there to bring back unique photos of what the best of Niue under water hopes to offer. Diving here is quite dangerous, being swept to and fro at three times walking speed, swinging ten metres over sharp corals, ready to be ripped to shreds. Fortunately this seascape can also be found in safer waters, near the Matavai Resort (matavai= kingfish Seriola sp).

The photos presented here were all taken in September 2004, about 9 months after Cyclone Heta struck. They hope to give you an impression of what Niue looks like, both above and under water, and how it is recovering. To inform yourself about Niue's history, geography, geology and much more, visit the extensive section about Niue.

For suggestions and improvements, please e-mail the author.
-- Seafriends home --  About Niue -- Impressions part two --Rev 20051122,20060104,

f043927: broken rocks and corals collect in a gully near Avatele but Heta did not move them. Next cyclone may.

f044005: encrusting corals on red coralline algae show some storm damage but most damage here stems from previous storms.

f044603: bent steel beam at the foot of Alofi in the Heta-hit depths. Notice the very barren rocks, some recently chipped. Their dark colour is from encrusting algae.

f044611: a tree was uprooted and lodged firmly inside this cave, not by Heta but by a previous cyclone.

f044736: a rubble canyon ground by rubble. But it collects flying ammunition and thus saves corals elsewhere. By yielding in one place, nature saves the surround.

f043705: the 'barren' rocks of the NW side are covered in fine algae, scraped off by various grazers. Large scratches by parrotfish, fine scratches by surgeonfish, triangular marks by sea urchins

f043706: this patch is criss-cross grazed mainly by urchins. Notice how nature always leaves some standing crop to regenerate the loss quickly. These barrens are very productive.

f044709: a rare photo of the exposed SE side shows leathery corals and other corals. The leathery corals do not break or chip easily.

f044710: not touched by cyclones, there is still much barren rock, covered by coralline algae, the plant that grows limestone rock.

f044711: healthy corals but not much variety. Wave exposure is one limitation but cool water another, and above all a lack of nutrients, necessary for all life.

f044712: Niue's pristine coast shows healthy corals and aggregations of small fish that live from these.

f044713: leathery corals and hard corals in profusion on the coast untouched by cyclones

f044715: large giant clams show that exploitation is not a problem on this coast. Note the ridges on the outside of this clam, unaffected by cyclones. Tridacna maxima.

f044717: any coral sticking out above the rest, risks its life in this wave-pounded environment. It shows that corals can grow tall in-between storms.

f044718: broken corals and empty territory are also found on the 'good' SE coast, providing food for grazing fish and snails.

f044923: coral landscape near Matavai shows many healthy corals. Lower down, the wave action is less, allowing brittle plate corals to grow.

f044927: the coral scape also shows broken corals and much empty space. The competition for space is not as strong as where waters are warmer with more nutrients.

f044720: near the Matavai Resort, coral is still in pretty good state, like these acropora plates. But they quickly dominate the seascape.

f044721 deeper than 25m there has been no cyclone damage. Acropora plates dominate the seascape, shading out all smaller corals

f044722: some coral damage dates back to previous cyclones, while some is recent

f044723: a young plate coral growing up and outward. Acropora hyacinthus

f044724: an acropora plate coral with its open structure, allowing for more protected surface area for its many little polyps.

f044726: the diver sees a variety of corals, small fish and lots of very clear water

f044731: a pink branching coral and others. Stylophora sp.

f044914: near Avatele, the rocks are visited frequently enough by cyclones, for them to look barren

f044916: the sheltered side of a coral bommy shows 50% live corals. Because corals have living algae in their skins, they look drab.

f044918: the exposed side of the same bommy shows only 5% of live coral, mostly deeper down.

f044921: between Avatele and Matavai, corals become increasingly larger and abundant. This is one of many Acropora antler coral species.

f043800: this insignificant seaweed is hardy enough to grow in the wave-washed zone. It is tough as boots.

f043801: nearly all seaweeds reproduce asexually by forming spreading networks of turfing roots

f044300: this red turfing seaweed is highly successful but is somehow not eaten

f045033: near Alofi this white mushroom seaweed can be found. It is not eaten by the many grazers.

f044036: inside a dark canyon under a foam umbrella, coral can grow only slowly as also the red coralline algae. Surgeonfish hang around to keep this environment clean.

f044832: a diver finds slow growing coral under a roof window inside a cave. Such leaves of coral may die back, then grow over the old structures again, for hundreds of years.

f044833: slow growing reddish corals in a roof-lit cave. No signs of cyclone damage on these rather old corals. Red leaf coral, Montipora sp.

f044835: where it becomes pitch dark, the night shift sleeps like these red squirrel fish. This photo was taken with  preset distance and other settings, pointing the camera into a dark hole. Sargocentron spiniferum

f044610: caves and canyons are found everywhere, fun to explore. The ones near Alofi support growth of green algae.

f043503: brown coral polyps half extended by day to catch the most sunlight. Corals have brown algae in their tissues.

f044204: at night the coral polyps compete for space while trying to catch small plankton particles (Favia sp)

f043504: closeup of brain coral, Leptoria sp.

f043505: during the day the polyps hide deep between the hard protecting ribs

f043510: by day this encrusting Porites coral has its polyps withdrawn but bright sunlight penetrates. Both Porites and Acropora are found in rockpools as they survive being out of the water for a while.

f044208: detail of Acropora coral shows complicated structure and small polyps. This coral follows a complicated growth pattern by which it eventually forms a mushrooming plate above other corals

f044926: detail of acropora plate coral showing how it creates maximal surface area and space in-between for its polyps.

f044211: a type of honeycomb coral extends its tissues by day but retracts its tentacles.  Favia sp.

f044321: closeup of an unidentified coral with a smooth surface.

f044931: remarkable structure of an unknown coral

f044933: antler type Acropora coral

f044329: anemone-like coral thrives in dark places. Turret coral Tubastrea sp. No algae in its tissues!

f044900: an anemone living like a coral in symbiosis with brown algal cells in its skin. Actinodiscus sp.

f044901: large disc anemone colony saved from cyclones by a protecting rock stack shown in f044914 above.  Actinodiscus sp.

f044915: the coral on left was touched and it retracted its polyps. The one on right did not notice (Cladiella australis)

f044928: two leathery corals, one with its long polyps out. Sarcophyton elegans.

f044934: this leathery coral has large polyps.  Sarcophyton elegans.

f043537: coral dying (bleaching) from living (brown) to dead (white) and invaded by green algae (greenish). Porites sp.

f044013: a purple coral with very small polyps is dying back. The white patch died recently; the green patch may have been caused by Heta

f044322: a brain coral dying back. Yet these waters are unpolluted and cool.

f044905: Acropora table coral - dead or alive?

f044920: die-back appears to be common in corals. Here a pink Stylophora coral is invaded by red coralline algae

f043928: a diver holds wandering slipper mushroom coral for size comparison.  Slipper coral Herpolitha sp.

f043929: wandering slipper coral is not attached. Storms keep it moving and on top of others. It is a good survival strategy. They can even lift themselves up.

f044930: a diver demonstrates size and shape of a wandering slipper coral. By night it extends long polyps.

f044012: this fine structured Porites coral offers space to burrowing christmas tree fan worms in all colours. Spirobranchus giganteus

f044014: a massive boulder star coral remains unscathed from the storm.  Astreopora sp.

f044015: these scratches are bite marks from parrot fish. They are quite rare as parrot fish mainly graze on the algal turf growing on coralline algae

f043530: juvenile banded flag-tails in a small rock pool. Kuhlia taeniura (Cuvier & Valenciennes) or Kuhlia mugil?

f044318: banded flag-tail almost invisible just under the surface near shallow rocks. In the foreground an Achilles tang.

f045008: banded flag-tail are almost invisible, but so are the pipers and grey mullets.

f043533: these small basslets are found even in very small rock pools. In the back lives a moray eel.

f044221: black and white basslet looks like snow when schooling.

f043535: the most prominent fish of Niue is perhaps this tiny rock skipping blenny, living half out of the water. It can move very fast bent in this u-shape which forms two legs: head and tail. Istiblennius edentulus

f043815: this rock skipper blenny was photographed above water, where it prefers to be. They are so cute. Istiblennius edentulus

f043821: two blennies side by side, related to the rock skipper (male and female?). Little fish like these may well be endemic, which means they are found nowhere else but around Niue

f043826: two blennies of different kind sharing a burrow to watch the photographer. They are so cute.

f043617: this purple cardinal fish is out at night to feed on plankton but here it shies away from the diver's torch

f043628: four-spot butterfly fish (Chaetodon quadrimaculatus)

f044219: long-nose butterflyfish can feed from deep narrow holes. Forcipiger flavissimus (Jordan & McGregor, 1898)

f043708: a white-tipped soldierfish active by night. Behind it a finelined squirrelfish.  Myripristis vittata (Cuvier, 1831)

f043716: a fine-lined squirrelfish, actively feeding on plankton by night. It has a long anal fin.  Sargocentron microstoma (Guenther, 1859)

f044215: a delicately tailed demoiselle or damselfish.

f044229: a blue spotted trevally looks almost invisible in the clear water. Blue jack,  Caranx melampygus

f043612: this convict surgeonfish is named after the stripes found on a convict's overalls. Acanthurus triostegus (Linnaeus, 1758)

f043718: convict surgeonfish in pyjamas, shows blotches on its sides

f043618: surgeon fishes are some of the gaudiest coloured fishes on the reef. They graze by day and sleep at night. Acanthurus sp.

f043631: a beautiful speckled surgeonfish photographed at night. Acanthurus guttatus (Bloch & Scheider)

f045020: speckled surgeon fish at night Acanthurus guttatus

f045103: a school of speckled surgeonfish patrolling the shallows for grazing their fluffy algae

f044111: deep blue velvet surgeon fish by night. Acanthurus nigricans (Acanthurus aliala)

f044131: orange and blue Achilles tang at night keeps its daylight colours while sleeping. Acanthurus Achilles (Shaw)

f044315: orange/blue Achilles surgeonfishes interacting with the divers, being both curious and wary.

f043737: parrotfishes are large and shy by day, but by night they are deep asleep in narrow caves

f044130: an exquisitely coloured parrotfish deep asleep. A vast number of different parrotfish are found on Niue.

f045001: typical parrot fish gauge marks in soft rock

f043806: these wild sergeant-major fish became tame within minutes of being fed. Abudefduf sordidus

f043809: juvenile blackspot sergeant-major fish.  Abudefduf sordidus (Forsskael, 1775)

f043811: all sergeant-major fish are industrious grazers on the shallow coral flats. Abudefduf septemfasciatus (Cuvier, 1830)

f044326: moorish idols are also plant eaters.  Zanclus cornutus (Linnaeus, 1758)

f044327: moorish idols seek company in pairs or small groups

f044917: brassy drummers are plant eaters. Kyphosus vaigiensis (Quoy & Gaimard, 1824)

Note that the synonym tang for surgeonfish means sharp point or spike, referring to the sharp knives on the sides of their tail stocks.

f043624: the double-bar or double-saddled goatfish is able to feed at night with its taste-sensitive barbels. Paraupeneus bifasciatus (Lacepede, 1801)

f045035: a yellow-finned, gold-lined goatfish at night. Mulloidichthys auriflamma (Forskael)

f044216: boomerang triggerfish or keel triggerfish.  Sufflamen bursa (Bloch & Scheider, 1801)

f044308: pennant bannerfish. Heniochus chrysostomus (Cuvier, 1831)

f043604: this patterned Ambon pufferfish (Ambon toby) wedged itself inside the crack by puffing itself up. Here it will sleep and stay night after night. Canthigaster amboinensis (Bleeker, 1865)

f044119: the black-spotted pufferfish is one of the most endearing creatures on the reef. It is variable in colour an can change colour at will

f044120: detail of black-spotted pufferfish.  Arothron nigropunctatus (Bloch & Scheider, 1801)

f045025: black spotted pufferfish occurs in many colours from pale to brown and yellow

f045028: little pufferfish are easily approached by night

f045029: tiny black spotted pufferfish in the hand. Arothron nigropunctatus

f045037: pufferfish wedge themselves into a cosy spot and inflate for a good night's sleep

f044232: this common lion fish is dark brown. Lion fish, also called firefish, can deliver painful stings with their back spines

f044235: closeup of brown common lion fish. Pterois volitans

f044325: a young brown common lion fish

f044937: a rare peacock flounder in Avatele harbour. There is little sandy habitat, but this flounder changes its colours as it moves over various rock forms, and is fascinating to watch. Here it has its swimsuit on, pale with blue flowers. Bothus mancus (Brousonet, 1782)

f045132: most fish are plant eaters, scraping algae off the coral rocks. Here one sees various species of surgeonfish and sergeant-majors.

f045129: The larger rock pools are tranquil and hold a lot of fish

f043511: sea snakes are very common. This one has folded itself into a shallow hole and is sleeping but even so it must surface now and then for a breath of air

f043517: closeup of a sea snake shows sharp eyesight and very small mouth which can still open wide. It has very small fangs backed by a lot of powerful poison.

f044114: closeup of sea snake

f043620: a small octopus withdraws into its den. Notice the many grazing snails.

f043622: this spotted rock cod is a small grouper.  Epinephelus hexagonatus (Bloch & Scheider)

f043719: banded moray eel enjoys protection because it looks somewhat like a poisonous sea snake (Gymnothorax rueppellii)

f044316: this white spotted brown moray is a white-mouth moray. Gymnothorax meleagris

f045013: a well-camouflaged large octopus at night

f043513: this spiny snail has a narrow opening to fend predators off. It grazes on the wave-swept coral platforms

f043514: don't step on this sharp snail that grazes in the most wave-washed places

f043731: this beautiful cowry actively grazes in deeper water by night. Cypraea sp.

f043732: underneath, this cowry shows fine colour patterns around its narrow opening

f043819: grazing cowries like this one are quite common on the shallow flats, but they are collected for decorative purposes

f220625: don't step on this sturdy little grazing snail, little bigger than a thumb nail.

f220630: the most amazing of all survivors is this little black urchin, living in the worst of the wave wash, inside its burrows and trenches. With some difficulty also a limpet (centre-right) and a spined snail (top-left) can be found.

f043600: this fluffy sea cucumber comes out at night to lick the rocks clean (Stichopus horrens)

f043904: on of the most amazing creatures is this large armoured sea cucumber, growing to almost one metre long.

f043906: a diver holds an armoured 'pineapple' sea cucumber for size.  Thelenota ananas

f043909: diver holding a medium sized armoured sea cucumber

f044212: detail of the rear of an armoured sea cucumber, Thelenota ananas

f044213: detail of the front of an armoured sea cucumber

f044800: diver finds a large armoured sea cucumber

f044801: thousands of tube feet give it secure holdfast against storms

f044802: its back is armoured with thick leathery scales, protecting it against sand blasting and flying debris.

f045034: the harmonica sea cucumber shrinks to an insignificant blob by day but extends at night to over one metre in length. It removes detritus from where it lives.

f044116: mouth of a harmonica sea cucumber, removing detritus. Opheodesoma australiensis

f043512: sea urchins are perhaps the most successful grazers on the barrens of the reefs (Echinometra mathaei)

f043601: a tiny needle urchin has left its hideout to graze at night (Echinothrix calamaris)

f043603: a black robust needle urchin is one of the largest urchins on the grazed barrens

f043607: a long-spined needle urchin out by night. Being able to fold its thin long spines, it can creep into small cracks to sleep by day. Diadema setosum

f045034: white spined needle urchin (Echinothrix calamaris)

f043613: hollow-spined needle urchin comes out only by night (Echinothrix calamaris)

f043614: closeup of hollow-spined needle urchin shows anal sac (Echinothrix calamaris)

f043721: hollow-spined needle urchin (Echinothrix calamaris)

f045015: hollow-spined needle urchin folded its spines for least water drag (Echinothrix calamaris)

f043615: a short-spined purple/orange urchin appears to read the latest news (Tripneustes gratilla)

f043626: sea urchins survive hurricanes inside the holes they dig

f044913: a colony of needle urchins thriving in the worst of a rubble gully

f044133: this tube snail lives in a hollow tube cemented to the rock. It catches plankton but also casts a sticky net to be more effective. It then pulls the net in and gobbles its own web inclusive of plankton particles that stick to it

f044202: detail of the tube of a tube snail (Dendropoma maxima)

f044224: the giant clam filters seawater for fine plankton. It is sought after because it contains much tasty flesh which can be removed easily without removing the  heavy shell, locked into the coral matrix. Tridacna maxima

f044225: the tridacna giant clam has a mantle with single-celled plants that grow in sunlight. They provide the clam's main food. Tridacna maxima.

f043710: this dense feather star comes out by night where it seeks a position in the current.

f043712: detail of a feather star does not quite show its very fine tube feet

f044104: this species of feather star does not move much and is out by day

f044105: this feather star hides by day. By night it coils up in the glaring dive light

f044106: a feather star walking on all legs, pushing from behind and pulling from the front, it walks towards bottom left. They can cover 2-5 metres a minute!

f044113: a baby featherstar grows its arms one by one as it matures.

f044107: a deep red serpent star on a purple coral is regrowing some of its arms. Leiaster speciosus

f044109: detail of a red serpent star. Leiaster speciosus

f044125: christmas tree fan worms have delicate double spirals and a closing disc. Spirobranchus giganteus

f044135: gaudily coloured christmas tree fan worms. Spirobranchus giganteus

f044134: christmas tree fan worms by night over a host coral with extended polyps Spirobranchus giganteus

f044205: one can never get enough of christmas tree fan worms

f045136: this unassuming sea slug is the famous Spanish dancer with its wide wings furled alongside its body. When it swims, it spreads its red wings with white circles, a breathtaking view to behold. Unfortunately, this was the last photo on film. Hexabranchus sanguineus

f043526: the weak-shelled shore crab has a beautiful disruptive pattern. It moves very fast with its long legs, both in and out of the water.  Grapsus grapsus tenuicrustatus.

f043822: the juvenile weak-shelled shore crab is almost invisible.  Grapsus grapsus tenuicrustatus

f043528: a small crab species, living in pairs along the high tide mark.  Plagusia depressa tuberculata. All crabs, shrimps and crayfish carry their eggs until they hatch, which helps survival.

f043707: one of many swim crabs by night.  Portunus granulatus?

f044122: a side-spined paddle crab at night.  Charibdis sp?

f044136: this flat crab colours well with its protective host, a hollow spined needle urchin. Percnon planissimum

f043629: the banded cleaner shrimp lives in pairs for life. During the day they advertise themselves clearly underneath overhangs for their fishy clientele. Stenopus hispidus

f043630: detail of a banded cleaner shrimp. These shrimps are very similar to those found in NZ. It does not risk its life in search of food, because its food is brought towards it as sea lice on the skins of fish.

f045016: banded cleaner shrimp in full glory. Stenopus hispidus

f044127: this red cleaning shrimp usually lives near eels and cleans them while sharing in their food

f043734: a large-clawed hermit crab has collected anemones to protect its soft abdomen. Dardanus gemmatus

f043736: because its house is so light, this anemone-covered hermit crab is able to make away fast

f044935: a very pretty white-and-pink feeler crayfish. Panulirus panversicolor. The French call it a white mustache.

f045024: the common green rocklobster is sought after for food. They can congregate in some caves, jealously kept secret by villagers.  Panulirus penicillatus

f044501: a swimmer explores Limu Pools where living coral is found and various species of fish

f044503: a swimmer explores one of the dark holes

f044504: the water is agreeable and clear

f044507: going up for another breath

f044510: snorkeldiver enjoying weightlessness

f044511: going up again

f044513: no words

f044517: most of Limu Pools is shallow and safe for children

f044522: snorkeller meets fish. Yellow moon-wrasse  Thalassoma lutescens and convict surgeonfish  Acanthurus triostegus

f044533: snorkelling through the archway in a thick layer of blurring cool fresh water on the surface

f044536: snorkeller and fish in the archway. Nocturnal bulls-eye, surgeonfish and others

f044719: diver in distant blue shows how clear the water is with 50m visibility

f044805: the caves are treasures to be explored

f044807: some caves are large and deep. Niue has many caves in shallow water.

f044829: some caves form an underwater labyrinth with roof windows here and there

f045113: swimming in the deep blue sea is very pleasant

f045114: the swimmer here is 15 metres away, cleaving her path through the waves

f045115: the clarity of the open water allows one to identify objects at 30m depth

f045120: a swimmer descends for a closer view

f045121: swimmer in ultra clear water, lit by a late sun

f045122: ascent from a deep dip, skin colour lit by the warm light of a setting sun

f045127: ascent in a deep blue sea

f045135: snorkeldiver in a tranquil pool with some fresh water on top

f220937: before Cyclone Heta these headlands were covered in dense scrub. Coral headlands extending into coral flats are typical of Niue. The photo shows how far and high the waves reached, removing all vegetation.

f220420: trees stripped and palms lost but already young ones planted. But recovery from this serious storm will take longer than usual.

f220421: the flame tree, ready to burst into flower, is used to losing its foliage, and survived with ease.

f220426: a summer-deciduous shade tree survived but government buildings on the horizon perished. People complained that some still good buildings were bulldozed too.

f220427: 30 metres of bush perished and was bulldozed over, but shoots sprout from the rubble. The bush will recover in due time.

f220431: ancient corals exposed in solid limestone rock show erratic structure. Some corals are found upside down and random rocks are embedded.

f220432: an erratic jumbled rock structure due to millions of years of hurricanes. It resembles the situation under water. The resulting rock is always porous.

f220433: deep chasms breaking through the jumbled limestone. These enable large storms to deposit water and debris far inland

f220434: rust waiting for the ship that never comes. Ironically, the soils here are craving for these minerals.

f220437: Cyclone Heta has added more rust to the metals dump.

f220603: the tops of houses destroyed by wind, their foundations by waves

f220604: houses that stood many cyclones close to the sea, have been destroyed completely

f220605: the foundations and polished cool living floors are all that is left. But in the background a house survived. What lessons can be learnt?

f220606: all that's left of the community centre and library, with its manicured gardens

f220925: the one-walled Mission Church stands as a stern reminder of nature's forces

f221236: little is left of the once prestigious Niue Hotel, its accommodation blocks and manicured grounds

f220503: a blow hole at Anaana Point sends waves 30m up in the air, and the sea does not even look wild. The coast turned away from hurricanes experiences the constant fury of large swells whipped up by never abating trade winds, which blow at a modest breeze of 15-20 knot (30-40km/h)

f220505: beaches like this at the Togulu sea track near Tamakautoga village, are rare. But the deep water is still far out behind the smooth coralline ledge.

f220506: the sand is unpolluted and so is the sea, with its crystal clear water but sandy beaches are very small and few.

f220510: at high tide the trade swell dumps and spills its froth over the coral platforms. At such times the sea is dangerous, and this is the fate of the coast turned to the trade winds

f220521: because of the steep cliffs all around the island, sea tracks are important.

f220523: this purple-leafed coastal lily is very hardy. It resists salt spray and can grow in next to no soil at all.

f220527: the access road has been destroyed which affects village life considerably. Where access to the sea is very good, a road leads to a boat ramp.

f220528: this is one of three places of good access to deep water, and the road has been destroyed. Notice the canoes and palm leaves to cover them up with, against piercing sunlight.

f220533: these rocks at Limu Pools were entirely covered in lush bush, which has been cleared by Heta. The picnic tables (see the concrete blocks) set in an idyllic surround, have also been washed away.

f220633: a tranquil view from Niue. Coconut trees overlooking an azure blue sea.

f220636: at Avatele boat ramp boats are lowered into the water by crane, rather than by backing the trailer into the brine

f220637: Heta did not wash away the Washaway Cafe. This part of the coast was little affected, although the sea washed around and through the cafe.

f220704: the Avatele boat ramp has ample canoe parking. It is an economically important harbour.

f220718: many sea tracks lead through a sea cave to the sea like this one at the end of an overgrown track.

f220719: access to the coral flats through a sea cave

f220720: the entire coast is surrounded by a coral flat like this. These flats do not consist of sharp corals but they are made by coralline algae on which green and brown algae grow. Notice the mysterious round rock pools and interconnecting channels.

f220820: outrigger canoes waiting for calmer seas or for their owners to return from overseas.

f220827: canoes seeking sea for a spot of fishing before sunset.

f221228: due to the soils being poor, agriculture is done on a rotational plan (midden system), leaving much land fallow.

f221229: the rotational midden system of agriculture looks messy but is sustainable

f220513: taro plants in the low light of a setting sun

f220516: the taro root is a main staple in the diet of Niueans. It grows slowly and accumulates starch over many years.

f220537: one of Niue's pretty forest plants

f220519: ancestors are well  looked after with flowers that don't perish immediately.

f220710: typical coastal forest - looking towards the sun

f220711: typical coastal forest - looking away from the sun

f220712: in villages like Vaiea, houses surround the village green with church and meeting hall. All villages are aware of POPs (Persistent Organic Pollutants), shown in signs initiated by the United Nations. However, POPs are the least of Niue's worries.

f220713: one of the many abandoned houses. Four out of five houses are empty because their owners now live in Auckland, Niue's biggest city. This house still has an asbestos roof, which is now perceived a health hazard even though no asbestos related sickness has been recorded.

f220714: information overload? People leaving Niue is a huge problem. The remaining ones are mainly children, the old  and infirm, but few workers.

f220715: several varieties of banana are grown on Niue but soils are fickle. It is not predictable where they will grow best. Many grow 'wild' but are looked after and harvested by villagers

f220716: pawpaw also grow well in the wild and they taste very nice.

f220724: like elsewhere in the tropics, much of the forest is dominated by climbing vines

f220727: one of the pretty vines in the forest

f220729: Niue has large coloured spiders, but this picture exaggerates

f220816: these trees on crutches are mangrove trees. Did Niue once have mangroves? It once was an atoll with a large lagoon, about one million years ago.

f220817: a stout mangrove tree (Pandanus) on stilt roots. Pandanus leaves are used for intricate weaving of detailed baskets and mats.

f221323: a fishing trip begins with a flight by crane, since all boats must be able to leave the sea. Niue does not offer any boat shelter against hurricanes.

f221403: a good catch after two hours of dawn trolling. Large tuna like these yellowfin and albacore are found within 1km offshore.

f220829: coconut crabs are threatened by being eaten and by being run over as this one we met on the road by night. It has disappeared from many other islands. Birgus latro

f220831: already 30 years old, this foot-sized crab may not escape the pot. But for now it is safe under the admiring eyes of the photographer. Who could eat such a beautiful animal, so unique in the animal kingdom?

f220832: the uga (pronounce oongah) in a submissive pose. The coastal road running through its main territory, is a death trap for many semi-coastal animals.

f220912: the coastal road also threatens land crabs that play Russian roulette with motor cars. Fortunately the locals drive slowly and they are adept at dodging them  Geograpsus crinipes

f220914: a land crab considers crossing the road. These land crabs depend on the sea to complete their life cycle. Females deposit their eggs in the sea where the larvae develop into young crabs before climbing on the land.

f220918: feisty female land crab brandishing her claws. Geograpsus crinipes

f221121: a purple land crab on the road. Geograpsus grayi

f221123: a large female purple land crab defending her brood of eggs under her abdomen. Geograpsus grayi

f221125: a purple rock crab attacked this cord and left her claws behind, a ploy to distract attackers.

f220922: large red land crab uses one of its long legs like a blind man's cane. Discoplax longipes

f220924: many land crabs face death on the road as road kill, like this large red crab. Discoplax longipes

f220902: a swarm of butterflies draws attention. Cyclone Heta upset the normal ecological cycles. Pests of caterpillars and no birds to eat them, are followed by swarms of butterflies.

f220904: closeup of the dominant butterfly

f220909: after rains, butterflies descend on spongy leaves to drink water

f220612: through this impressive cave one can reach the sea at Avaiki near Makefu village

f220613: impressive and colourful dripstone formations but the sea stormed through to destroy all vegetation inland. Notice the many colours of red, brown and green algae able to live here because daylight enters from two sides.

f220614: the seaward side of Avaiki cave is clearly subjected to storm damage.

f220616: the rock pools at Avaiki are colourful and full of life. In the background the swimming pool of kings

f220620: the main pool is like swimming inside a cathedral. Crystal clear sea water overlaid by cool fresh water. But no swimming is allowed here on Sundays.

f220622: spectacular colours of encrusting life in the main pool of Avaiki

f220631: coral flat and cathedral pool of Avaiki

f220723: the Togo sea track leads through some nice native coastal forest.

f220815: the end of the forest is marked by a lonely coconut tree, warped by winds. From the top of the ridge, one descends to the Alofi platform surrounding the whole island.

f220732: the Togo track leads through an alien landscape of razor sharp pinnacles where plants are forbidden. These sharp rocks were formed by wind-driven saltwater raindrops excavating ancient sharp coral organisms.

f220733: this is the landscape that belongs to the coast facing away from cyclones. It consists of ancient coral rocks in which the corals are still largely whole while pointing upward.

f220811: the rocks here are very sharp indeed due to ancient corals carved out by rain drops

f221523: raindrops excavated this coral structure, as sharp as if it were still alive today

f221524: a million year old coral, excavated by rain drops. The dark paint consists of lichens that can live almost anywhere from the moisture and fertility in the air.

f221525: the excavated sharpness in detail is uncanny

f220734: in this hostile landscape lies a hidden oasis inside a chasm, complete with forbidden palm trees

f220735: the Togo chasm contains a beach and palm trees and more hidden treasures

f220737: descent into the chasm is steep and deep. No OSH here.

f220801: looking back at the 27 big steps down

f220802: an oasis with the feel of a desert oasis

f220804: behind blockading rocks lies another oasis, moist and cool with a green fresh water pool at its very end

f220809: a sea cave with a roof light leads to the sea. It can be found immediately left of the ladder.

f220814: at the end of the sea cave the tradewind-fanned sea foams wildly under a natural bridge

f220822: with only two flights arriving each week, Hannan Airport lies abandoned most of the time. Its big trees downed by Heta.

f220823: the temporary hospital and ambulance after the old hospital close to the sea, was severely damaged.

f221320: Broadcasting Corporation Niue with its dish antennas to the rest of the world, still buckled

f221312: Government House, spared from Heta's wrath, right above the sea.

f221321: the shopping centre with the WestPac bank on left

f221409: the main intersection of Alofi with on the right side the police station, the development bank and the market place. Just visible on left, Government House

f221329: Many locals bury their family close to home and look well after their graves.

f221310: the first rays of the sun sets the budding flame tree alight over Alofi's anchorage for visiting yachts.

f221331: stripped trees and ships at anchor in a setting sun

f220926: show day at Tuapa begins early with food

f220927: a tethered uga of some 40 years old sells for NZ$15. Males grow much larger than females. At ten years of age, coconut crabs are only fist-sized. Birgus latro

f220928: coconut crabs are rather varied in their colours. 50-year old males are truly awesome but this one is only 30 years old.

f220930: the show day also offers produce for sale like gigantic taro roots, strange bananas and more

f220935: counting a few hundred participants means a large island turnout

f221101: the local parties are well catered to but the food tastes bland

f221205: the Saturday is used for communal working bees like this one replacing an asbestos roof

f221404: heavy equipment for shifting containers,  waiting for the Ship to arrive. Reef Shipping has a large permanent investment here to support its shipping operation.

f221405: neatly stacked empty containers are waiting for the ship which incurred delays

f221421: the container ship has arrived and is swinging around its anchor for a stern line to the shore.

f221422: heavy container moving equipment is readied - trucks, loaders and forklifts.

f221423: the first full containers have been unloaded; from the ship into barges and from there onto land. It can be a tricky operation in unfavourable conditions but today the sea is unusually calm.

f221424: much depends on this crane. Containers are loaded onto transporters by the wharf crane and must be unloaded with this crane to free the transporters up again. If one breaks down, the ship's departure is delayed.

f221006: will these girls have babies in Niue or Auckland? Educated through a NZ education system with English as main language, they are well prepared either way.

f221037: will these young lads stay or leave? Niue needs fit men prepared to bolster the revival of Niue's economy, but Auckland's way of life beckons.

f221401: the new fish factory nearing completion but will there be enough fish and which men and women will go out after them? Will there be ships suitable for this special task? Will the catch reach distant shores?

f221203: a vanilla plantation in the rain. Vanilla is an orchid, of which the valuable black dried seed pods are used. Being a shade loving vine, it is trained on a living shade tree and draped in loops around it.

f220708: a young nonu tree, already bearing fruit. Nonu juice is believed a health panacea, in eager demand worldwide.

f221520: the nonu fruit on which much of future prosperity depends. Organically grown or wild nonu is even more valuable.

f221527: tens of thousands of nonu saplings in long rows await the tribulations of the dry season, yet to come. The vagaries of nature are large.

f221530: the nonu processing plant is nearing completion, hoping for rich harvests from the forest and from own plantings

f221534: photography by Floor Anthoni floor@seafriends.org.nz. All photos are available in high resolution format.